5-day itinerary

Rome

Ostia Antica is what Pompeii would feel like if it weren't so crowded — Rome's ancient harbour city, abandoned in the Middle Ages and preserved under silt, with intact apartment blocks, mosaics, and a theatre that still hosts performances. Take the Roma–Lido commuter train from Porta San Paolo; it is 30 minutes and costs almost nothing. This 5-day Rome itinerary books the Colosseum and Vatican Museums for the first two days, saves the Borghese Gallery for day four — the Bernini Apollo and Daphne alone justifies the trip, but you must book weeks in advance — and finishes with a morning at Testaccio Market, which is where Romans shop, not where tourists go to eat supplì.

Day 1

Colosseum, Forum, and Trastevere

Arrive at the Colosseum at opening time with pre-booked tickets. The ancient city sites are included on one combo ticket. Trastevere is the evening anchor — walk there from Palatine Hill across the river.

Morning

Colosseum

Established

The 2,000-year-old amphitheatre — 80,000-seat spectacle of gladiatorial combat. Book timed-entry online. The arena floor access gives the best sense of scale.

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Roman Forum

Established

The political heart of ancient Rome. Walk slowly — the ruins are only a fraction of what once stood here. The Arch of Titus and the Temple of Saturn are the clearest structures.

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Afternoon

Palatine Hill

Established

The hill of emperors, included with the Forum-Colosseum ticket and far less crowded. The gardens have the best view of the Circus Maximus below. Allow 90 minutes.

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Evening

Trastevere

Established

The medieval neighbourhood that locals claim as the real Rome. The lanes come alive at dinner time. Start at Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere — the mosaic facade is lit magnificently at night.

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